Transform Your Newcastle Home: The Ultimate DIY Weatherboard Painting Guide
Want your home to have that classic weatherboard look like it’s just been built? A good DIY paint job can make it happen. But here’s a secret the pros don’t always tell you: the most important part is the prep work. Mess this up, and your beautiful paint job will start peeling quickly. Get it right, though, and your weatherboards will look amazing for years. If you’re ready to tackle your transformation, remember that sometimes it pays to call on the experts – reliable local painters in Newcastle can get the job done right.
Prepping Your Boards: The Foundation of a Beautiful Finish
Think of prep work like building a house – you need a strong, well-made foundation for anything on top to last. Rushing through prep is the top reason DIY paint jobs end up chipping, peeling, or looking patchy, even with the best paint. Here’s a closer look at each step:
Cleaning: The Unsung Hero
Dirt, dust, cobwebs, mould, and mildew are paint’s worst enemies. They prevent the new paint from properly bonding with the surface. Here’s how to do it right:
- Pressure washer: This is the fastest and most effective method. Be careful not to damage old wood—use a wide spray nozzle at 1000 to 2500 PSI and keep a safe distance, at least 1 foot away from the surface.
- Scrub and rinse: If you don’t have a pressure washer, a stiff brush, a bucket of soapy water (sugar soap is ideal), and a good rinse can do the trick.
- Mould issues: Use a dedicated mould-killing solution for stubborn mould and mildew. These are readily available at hardware stores like Bunnings. Wear PPE (gloves, mask) and follow the product’s instructions.
Sanding: Smoothing Things Out
Even if the boards look ok at a glance, sanding is crucial. It does three things:
- Removes loose paint: Flaky bits will sabotage your new paint job. Scrape off anything loose and sand those areas smooth. Handheld scrapers are a simple and affordable option. Choose one with a sturdy handle and a replaceable blade. They are best for small areas or targeted scraping.
- Evens the surface: Bare wood, old paint, and filler create a bumpy texture. Sanding creates a level base for paint to adhere evenly.
- Opens the pores: Lightly sanding helps the primer and paint bond better with the wood, especially if there’s any previous gloss paint.
Priming: The Secret to Long-Lasting Paint
Many DIYers think primer is optional, but it’s a game-changer for exterior wood:
- Adhesion: Primer acts like a super-glue for paint, especially on weatherboards exposed to the elements.
- Uniform look: It creates an even base, which gives you a better final colour and coverage with less coats of paint.
- Stain blocking: Primer stops watermarks and wood tannins from bleeding through your beautiful new paint!
Must-Have Tools for Prep: Your Prep Work Arsenal
Getting your weatherboards ready for painting requires a few simple but essential tools. Here’s what you’ll need and why:
Pressure washer (or hose and brush):
- Why it’s crucial: Removes old paint, dirt, cobwebs – all things that ruin new paint jobs.
- Pressure washer tips: Use a fan nozzle on a low setting, keep it moving, and avoid damaging old wood.
- No pressure washer? A hose, a stiff-bristled brush, and elbow grease also work, but it’ll take longer.
Sanding block and sandpaper (various grits):
- Coarse grit (60-80): Strips off loose paint and roughs up surfaces for better paint grip.
- Medium grit (100-120): Smoothes out rough areas after coarse sanding and prepares surfaces for primer.
- Fine grit (220 or higher): For a final, super-smooth finish between coats of primer and paint.
Exterior-grade wood filler:
- The hole solution: Fill in cracks, nail holes, and any damage with an exterior-grade wood filler like Pollyfilla Exterior Timber Filler. This ensures the wood will withstand Newcastle’s rain and humidity.
- Smooth it out: After the filler dries, flush it with the surrounding wood for a seamless look.
Putty knife:
- Filling assistant: Helps you apply wood filler smoothly and scrape away the excess.
- Flexibility is key: Look for a flexible blade that can work into tight corners and curves.
Dust mask:
- Safety first: Sanding and dealing with old paint can create dust. Protect your lungs! Even a basic dust mask (N95) makes a difference. These are suitable for light sanding tasks where the old paint is known to be lead-free. They filter out most dust particles but don’t protect against fumes or gases.
Choosing Your Weapons: Brushes, Rollers, and Sprayers
Having the right tools makes any job easier, and painting weatherboards is no different. Here’s a closer look at your options and when to use each:
Brushes: The Detail Masters
- Where they excel: Corners, edges, cutting in around windows and doors, and any fine detail work.
- Brush types: Look for synthetic bristle brushes specifically designed for exterior paints. These hold up well in harsh weather conditions.
- Size matters: Keep a few different sizes on hand—larger ones for flat areas (4-inch (100mm) or even 5-inch (125mm) and smaller ones (2-inch (50mm) or 2.5-inch (63mm) for detailed work.
Rollers: Speedy Coverage
- Large area lifesaver: Rollers are essential for tackling the main expanses of your weatherboards.
- Nap know-how: A medium nap roller (around 4-10mm) is ideal for weatherboards. It holds enough paint without leaving a super textured finish.
- Quality counts: Invest in a good quality roller. Cheap ones shed fibres and can ruin your paint job. Microfiber rollers are the best for weatherboard painting.
Sprayers: Spray Painting Guidance
- Tip Size: A smaller tip (around 310-410 in fine finish) is best for most exterior paints. This gives a finer spray pattern and better control.
- PSI (Pressure): Start around 2000 PSI and adjust as needed. Low pressure can start making lines on the side, and too high a pressure can cause overspray and runs.
- Distance: Hold the sprayer about 10-12 inches from the weatherboards. Maintain a consistent distance and move the sprayer smoothly and evenly.
Primers: The Unsung Hero of a Long-Lasting Paint Job
Many DIYers underestimate the power of primer, but it’s like the foundation of a house – it makes everything on top stronger and longer-lasting. Here’s why and when to use primer:
Bare wood: The Always Prime Rule
- Sealing the deal: Unprimed wood is porous. Primer seals those pores, creating a smooth, even base for your paint to stick to.
- Tannin troubles: Certain woods (like cedar) have tannins that can bleed through paint, creating ugly brown stains. Primer acts as a barrier.
Old paint: It Depends
- Sanding is key: If you’ve sanded large areas right back to bare wood, prime those sections.
- Condition check: If the old paint is sound and well-adhered, you may be able to skip the primer. However, a full coat of primer is a good insurance policy if it’s flaky, peeling, or chalky.
Stains: Problem Solver
- Water stains: Common after leaks or in older homes. These need a stain-blocking primer to prevent them from showing through your new paint.
- Smoke, nicotine, rust…yuck! These also require specialist stain-blocking primers. Look for products labelled for the specific type of stain you’re dealing with.
Paint Types for Weatherboards
Acrylic:
This is the most popular choice for exterior painting in Australia. Here’s why:
- Durability: Modern acrylic paints are designed to withstand harsh weather, flexing with temperature changes to resist cracking and peeling.
- Breathability: Allows some moisture to escape, reducing the risk of trapped moisture causing blisters.
- Fade resistance: Quality acrylics protect their colour against the harsh Aussie sun.
Oil-based:
Traditionally used for exterior wood, acrylics have mostly overtaken them in popularity due to the following:
- Clean-up: Oil paints require solvents for clean-up, while acrylics are water-based.
- Yellowing: Oil paints can turn yellow over time, especially in white and light colours.
Sheen Levels for Weatherboards
Sheen refers to how shiny the paint looks once dry. Here’s a rundown of standard options:
- Flat/Matte: This material has zero shine and hides imperfections well, but it is less durable for high-traffic areas and not ideal for weatherboards.
- Low-Sheen: Subtle sheen. It’s a good choice for weatherboards, offering good coverage and some dirt resistance.
- Satin/Semi-gloss: This has a more noticeable shine. It provides excellent weather and dirt resistance, making cleaning easier. It is a good middle ground for weatherboards.
- Gloss: These paints have a high shine and are very durable but show imperfections easily. Gloss is less common for weatherboards but can be used on trim in conjunction with a lower sheen on the main boards.
Choosing the Right Sheen
- Style: Lower sheens suit traditional styles, and higher sheens can look more modern.
- Surface condition: If your weatherboards have imperfections, a lower sheen helps disguise them.
- Maintenance: Higher sheens are easier to wipe clean.
- Location: Super-high gloss can be glaring in full sun.
Additional Considerations
- Mould resistance: Are you tired of battling mould in your home’s shaded areas? High-quality paints often include additives that resist mould and mildew growth, which is especially important in humid Aussie weather.
- Brand quality: High-quality paints (Dulux), especially those formulated for Australia’s harsh UV rays, offer superior durability compared to budget brands. Your home’s exterior will resist fading and peeling for years longer.
Painting for Perfection: Pro Tips for a Flawless Finish
Now it’s time for the fun part – laying down that beautiful new colour! Here are a few techniques the pros use to get that smooth, even finish:
Top-Down Strategy:
- Why it matters: Gravity is not your friend when painting! Starting at the top and working down prevents drips from falling on and ruining your freshly painted areas.
- Pro tip: Paint gutters and fascia boards first, then the weatherboards below.
Follow the Grain:
- Natural look: Weatherboards have a wood grain direction. Brushing and rolling with the grain makes the paint blend in seamlessly.
- Practical benefit: It also helps the paint flow more smoothly and reduces visible brushstrokes.
Light Coats Win the Race
- Drip control: Thick globs of paint are the cause of unsightly drips and runs.
- Evenness: Multiple thin coats dry more evenly and give better coverage than one thick coat.
- Patience is key: Allow each paint coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next one.
Two Coats: The Standard for a Reason
- Full coverage: Even with primer, one coat of paint is rarely enough to hide the surface below completely.
- Protection: Two coats provide a thicker layer of paint, which means better durability and weather resistance.
Proactive Fixes for Common Painting Woes Drips/Runs
Why Paint Drips and Runs
- Too Much Paint: The main reason is having too much paint on your brush or roller. It gets heavy and slides down.
- Other Things That Matter:
- Thin Paint: Watery paint runs more easily. Check if it needs to be thicker.
- Upright Walls: Paint is more likely to drip when you’re painting up and down.
How to Stop Drips
- Less is More: Don’t overload your brush or roller! Dip it in the paint, then get rid of the extra.
- Steady Hands: Use even pressure when painting. Don’t keep going over the same spot.
- Check Your Work: Look for drips as you paint. If you catch them early, you can fix them quickly.
Why Paint Looks Uneven
- Bad Surface: Rough spots or dirt stop the paint from going on smoothly.
- Stretching it Thin: Putting on very thin layers or brushing too much while it dries makes it look patchy.
- Cheap Paint: Low-quality paint sometimes doesn’t spread well.
How to Fix It
- Prep Matters: Sand and clean the surface really well before painting.
- Light Layers: Doing two thin coats is better than one thick one. Let each coat dry fully.
- Good Paint Helps: Quality paint for exterior (Dulux Weathershield) use will give you the best finish. Ask Procover Painting for advice on the right kind!
Caring for Your New Look: Maintenance Matters for Long-Lasting Beauty
You’ve invested time and effort in giving your weatherboards a fresh look. Now, a little regular maintenance will keep them looking sharp for years to come:
Regular Cleaning: Keep Dirt at Bay
- Why it’s important: Dirt, mould, and mildew aren’t just unsightly; they can damage paint over time.
- Gentle is best: A gentle hose-down a few times a year removes most buildup. For stubborn areas, use a soft brush and soapy water (sugar soap is ideal).
- Check gutters: Clogged gutters can cause water to splash on your weatherboards, so include them in your cleaning routine!
Touch-Up Chips: Stopping Trouble Before it Starts
- Chips are inevitable: Even the best paint jobs get the occasional chip from hail, bumped objects, etc.
- Don’t delay: Sand the chip smooth, prime any bare wood, and apply a matching touch-up coat. It prevents moisture from penetrating in and causing bigger damage.
- Keep some spare paint: Have a small, sealed container of your paint colour specifically for touch-ups.
Full Repaint: When Time Takes Its Toll
- It’s not a failure: All exterior paint eventually needs repainting. High-quality paint, good prep, and regular care will extend its life.
- 5-10 years is typical: This depends on your climate, paint type, and how exposed your weatherboards are to the elements.
- Signs it’s time: Fading, peeling, excessive chalking, or cracking mean it’s time to call your favourite Newcastle painters for fresh coats of paint.
Let’s be honest, even the best DIY jobs have those “oops” moments. If you find yourself in a paint-covered pickle, don’t panic! Remember, sometimes, the best option is to put down the brush and call in the reinforcements. Procover Painting, your Newcastle painting experts, are here to save the day (and your sanity)! Contact us for your FREE quote.
FAQ
Most frequent questions and answers
Both! Brushes are for edges, corners, and details. Rollers cover the large flat areas quickly.
- Clean: Wash off dirt, mould, etc., with a pressure washer or scrub brush and soapy and warm water.
- Sand: Smooth out rough spots of old paint and create a slightly rough surface for the paint to stick to.
- Fill: Repair holes and cracks with exterior wood filler.
Windows first, it prevents drips from ruining the freshly painted weatherboards.
Two is standard. Even with primer, one coat is rarely enough for full coverage and protection.
- Use steady pressure. Don’t go over the same area too much, as the paint dries.
- Thin Coats: Several thin coats dry more evenly than one thick one.
- Good tools: Quality brushes and rollers make a difference!
Yes! Rollers are essential for covering large areas quickly. Use one with a medium nap for the best results.
